Joanie's France/UK Vacation

June 2025
For past vacations - Click Here

If you listen to my radio show or follow my Instagram or just happened to see me in early July, you know I had the worst vacation of my life in June, to La Rochelle/Tours/Paris France and London/Bath UK. When I was texting people the various things going wrong, they'd say "well you're getting it out of the way early" but it just kept going and going. I think there are a few good things to report tho.

I was scheduled to fly on British Airways at 5:50PM on Mon. 6/16 with a change in London then on to Paris for arrival around 11AM on Tues. and a train at 3:30 to La Rochelle, plenty of time 😁. Checked in with BA at 8PM Sun. 6/15 and all was fine but when I looked at email Mon. morning, they had canceled the flight. WTF. They rebooked me on American with okay/similar times, now going Bos-Philly-Paris. The orange line was fine but when switching to the blue line, they decided to run shuttle buses which sucked, then they kicked us off the bus at Maverick cuz the blue line was supposedly working but not quite. Looking back, that was the least of my worries. Grabbed a wine to chill, boarded and after leaving the gate, we had to return cuz a passenger was having issues. The Philly-Paris was now delayed 30 min so it wasn't too worrisome but then we get to Philly and instead of leaving at 10PM or so, we wait for a plane supposedly coming from the hangar, but it took forever and we didn't board til midnight. Finally, we pull out like two feet, then we're told they have to go back and called off the flight, some issue with the plane. They left us to our own devices in a freezing cold airport at 1:30AM. I tried phoning American to rebook but they had nothing until Wed. going thru Charlotte. Then they told us they rescheduled the flight which would leave almost a full day later, at 6PM Tues. instead of 10PM Mon. If they had hotel vouchers, I sure didn't get one. The only good thing was my fellow passengers were super nice, from places like Buffalo, Kansas City, State College, Cleveland, India (that poor guy had been screwed even more). When you're all stuck in the same crappy boat, you bond. I called my hotel in La Rochelle saying don't give away my 2nd nite cuz I wasn't gonna be there for night 1. Plus I was obviously missing my train which I'd left myself PLENTY of time for, I had to deal with rebooking on arrival.

Gone wrong

Slept for 20 min in a massage chair and at 6:30AM I took the train to downtown Philly, had bkfst with some local scrapple, wandered around (love their architecture), slept for 20-30 min in a Marriott lobby, went thru Reading Terminal, got an iced coffee at a cafe and caught another 20 min or so. After killing around 7 hrs, I headed back to the airport and went to the Geno's in the food court to use the $12 voucher AA gave us for a yummy cheesesteak. Except guess what, yours truly now can't taste. This was the 3rd time in 3 months I'd lost taste and it wasn't Covid. But it'll come around, right??? I'll tell you now, no it didn't. A week in France and one in the UK and nothing except for 3 fleeting moments. We finally boarded and get this, take off! I got thru customs quickly and bought the train ticket to Montparnasse station where the train leaves for La Rochelle (couldn't use the one I'd bought in advance) but most of the trips were sold out, so it now was a 4.5 hr trip with a change, not the original direct 2.5 hr trip. I had lots of time to kill so enjoyed a typical Parisian bkfst, boarded the weird hot car but met nice people from Cambridge UK (hi Lexi) and got to La Rochelle.

La Rochelle

It was a short walk to the cute Hotel de l'Ocean, super nice people working there. Jumped in the shower (and caught 30 min of sleep) then wandered around and had a scallop risotto dinner at Le Maillon (tasteless of course). I was stupid about getting the bus to the club La Sirene so took an overpriced taxi. Bands were going on later than I thought, I caught Clamm (from Melbourne, who were all right) but knew I couldn't make it all the way for C.O.F.F.I.N (Sydney) who were headlining. Asked some locals when the bus headed back to town but no one could find the schedule so this woman Alina who was cooking food at the bar said she'd give me a ride when she was done. I was sad to miss COFFIN but keep in mind, it was now literally 2.5 days (!!??) since I'd gotten into a bed. I did walk thru town, it's a beautiful little city, but skipped getting a late drink at the WWII themed Le Cadre. Even in the hot weather and just a fan, it was finally time for real sleep. Got up early to walk thru another area of town, grab a pastry (it looked good haha), and after a mere 13 hours in La Rochelle, it was time for the train to Tours.

Tours

Walked to the Hotel Berthelot but they lock their door between bkfst and official check in time. I was kind of ready to lose it when I saw that, I just wanted to leave off my bags. Thankfully, someone next door saw me and they quickly cleaned the room for me. The hallways were dark, you had to sit at an angle on the toilet (hope you're not bigger than 5'5" 120lbs), but it was an ok room with a cool view of ruins out back. Grabbed a cheese bacon baguette (looked good) and walked to Cafe Leffe for an ice cold beer (I only drink beer in foreign countries it seems). I had canceled a wine tour cuz things were going so wrong and since I had so little time in town. I was still exhausted so slept on a park bench for 5 min then ended up on this little train tour of the city. Iced coffee still isn't a huge thing over there so had to resort to Starbucks, sat in their AC (that's not a huge thing in France either haha) and used the bathroom. Walked by the river then to the old town by the timbered houses, then a gelato while swatting away little bugs. It was hot, I was sweaty and had sunscreen on, assumed that was the issue. While trying to cool down, I got a text from Citi about a charge I didn't make so I had to deal with canceling the card (thankfully not the one I had with me, which also happened in Norway last year). Walked around later looking for dinner, found another section of town but headed back to old town ended up at with what seemed like a very nice meal of rump steak, potato and veggies with a glass of rosé. Ended with a Campari spritz outside at Brasserie Madeleine by my hotel and noticed those little bugs on the table. Hmm. Hit the sack, the fan worked well, fell asleep in a bed (yay) but when I went to the bathroom at 3AM, I saw hundreds of those bugs all over the toilet and on the extra roll of TP on the top. I freaked out. I quickly emptied my little toiletry bag, which was on the sink and thankfully didn't see anything in there. They def. seemed confined to the toilet but gross. It took 90 min or so to fall back to sleep, just when I thought sleep would be normal again. On top of things, that nice little meal messed up my stomach, I had crazy blisters and my eye was weird. The fun just never stops.

Checked out Fri morning (mentioned the bugs to reception but I think they're all used to it), putzed around, grabbed a chocolate croissant and water for only 2.20 euro, hit Leffe for an orangina then a quick train ride to Paris. I had a decent deal at Belambra Hôtel Magendie but the subway there was absolutely stifling in a heat wave. Thought the hotel had AC but no such luck, then saw the shower nozzle was broken but they fixed it quickly. I was too tired to do anything other than wander the neighborhood a bit (not the most exciting arrondissement of Paris), grabbed a croque monsieur and strawberry tiramisu, showered, napped then way out to the 19th arrondissment to Glazart for Syndrome 81 at 7. Another horrible hot subway ride with a woman's hair on my arm, only to get to the club to find out that Syndrome 81 canceled. Of course they did. There was good news tho cuz both Cran and Prisonnier du Temp were filling in, both of whom I've seen in over here. Talked with Felix and Ben from the bands a bit, enjoyed The Chisel more this time, and got back to the hotel area in time for a rosé outdoors on the boulevard. Slept pretty well even tho no AC.

Paris

Now stomach issues have hit me for Sat. and Sun., not fun, plus there were no times available to see the catacombs, so I walked to Montparnasse Cemetery, thru a nice outdoor food market, then to Montparnasse Tower which Lexi had recommended. The view was fine but it was hot and no cafe to get a cold drink, so I stopped in the supermarket for some AC. My taste actually came back for a sample of sauteed scallops but once I bought a cake and dessert, it was gone again. Took the metro to Sacre Coeur but it was very crowded (not surprising) so I skipped going inside. Wandered around a bit while musicians were out for the annual Fete de la Musique then back to my area for a cold happy hour pint at Le Marijan with a very nice waiter from Bulgaria. There was a free 8PM show at Le Sample with our Montreal boys Béton Armé (again quite a distance from me) but there was a line that didn't move for the 20 min I was there, so I ventured to the Republique area to see more of the city, which was packed for the Fete. Packed with mostly terrible music and people, yuck. I saw one girl down on the ground with her friends around her assuming she drank too much but as you may have heard on the news, men were going around sticking needles filled with roofie type drugs into women. I hope that wasn't the case for that girl (and surprised it didn't happen to me with the way things were going 😁). Took the metro to Opera and ended the nite with a crepe. Horrible, sweltering hot subway ride back, had to shower.

More Paris

We had free bkfst at the hotel which I couldn't taste of course, but the pastries seemed very good. Walked thru the Place Monge market then to Arènes de Lutèce, an old Roman arena, then to Musée Carnavalet, the city museum which was good (and free). Got a proper iced coffee, stopped in the very pretty St Paul-St Louis church then by Hotel de Ville over to Notre Dame. Didn't want to stand in line to enter so walked around trying to find some shade. Got a snack then cucumber gin cocktail at the Irishman in my area, not a bad place. Took another long subway ride later to L'Armony for a show with Los Intrusos, a Mexican garage band, and local band Human Toys with former MBR DJ (and Mr. T Experience member) Jon Von who's lived in Paris a long time. He had been very helpful with info when I contacted him and the place seemed cool in a Midway kind of way (but with food). Ended at a Kentucky Fried Chicken cuz I was done spending money on nicer meals, ending with another glass of rosé at a spot in Place d'Italie. And actually rode one metro with AC! Mon. I walked to the Pantheon, the pretty Jardin de Luxembourg, along Blvd St Germaine, then hopped on the train to treat myself to a nice meal but the line was crazy so just wandered around the Pigalle sex shops. Then down to the Bastille section and the excellent Born Bad records, had a wacky happy hour drink not far from the hotel, grabbed a roast chicken sandwich and a final beer at the Irishman. Paris/France, it just wasn't meant to be.

Bath

Tues. I took the Eurostar from Paris to London for the first time, a total clusterfuck of people in line to go thru both France customs then UK customs immediately after. Hopped the tube to my friend Dana's in the Hammersmith section of London, where she and David commented on how very congested I sounded, a new twist to things going bad. We got a Thai lunch at a cool pub thinking maybe spicy food would clear me up but no such luck. That evening Dana and I had a nice meal at the pub Bird in Hand then dessert at her local, Queen's Head Pub. Just watched some TV since I was getting up early to take the train to Bath on Wed. I was sniffy and a little wheezy, lots of nose blowing, but colds, coughs, pneumonia, no taste, etc. didn't stop me so off to Bath I go. The train was late of course (station was packed with all the people heading to the Glastonbury Festival) but I sat next to a nice gal from Singapore who gave me cough drops. (Side note: Besides the congestion, my eyebrow area was hurting which was unusual. Then after seeing an ENT doctor when I got back, we figured out it was probably some weird sinus thing that had caused the no taste. Thankfully, it came back on July 5th.) The Hotel Indigo was spectacular even with a room in the basement. Walked by The Abbey, found a bakery with the cardamom buns (and tasted some of it!), walked to the Royal Crescent, over to the Pulteney Bridge, and visited the Roman Baths which is a major attraction there. Headed out for food and finally saw a doner kebab truck but I was on my way to The Raven for venison pie which I'm sure was great. Ended up with strawberry daiquiri (and dirty ice) at The Square Grill with an old school piano guy entertaining us. On Thurs, the hotel was nice enough to let me check out a little late so more waking to Alexandra Park, some bakery treats, visited the cool Castle Fine Art gallery, Chapter 22 Roots and Records and the Parade Gardens before heading back to London.

Back to London

The train left me by this area Little Venice that I'd never seen so I checked that out then dropped stuff at Dana's and back out toward the Moorgate/Shoreditch area in the east. People were out in full force for Thurs. happy hour. I met old friend Robert at Nightjar for a drink then Vietnamese food. Fri. Dana and I headed to the Natural History Museum but we didn't want to stand in the long line so I headed to Covent Garden and wandered around. Had another cardamom bun but no taste. Regrouped to meet Mike and his cousin Maura (who'd been in 3 other UK cities and now in London) for dinner then a show at the Hope and Anchor. This guy from the band The Phobics who opened for 999 when I was there in Oct. 2023 was working the door and gave me a CD of newish music. Atomic Suplex were great, The Primevals from Scotland were cool, but I left a little early (as I tend to do). Sat. I headed west to the Richmond part of town, a cute area. Nice people at their weekly market and I tasted my 3rd item of the trip, a sample of pepper jelly (but gone soon after when I bought real food to eat). Took the long tube ride to my fave, Borough Market, but only got a brownie. Really wanted to sit with a nice drink but nothing appealed, esp. with lots of "hen parties" going on. Regrouped again to meet up with Mike (who'd been on a never ending Stonehenge trip) in Camden Town for Ultra-foxx at the Fiddler's Elbow. I expected to hear all my favorite Ultravox songs, sadly it was very disappointing so we cut our losses to hang out at the Devonshire Arms for lots of metal.

Out and about

Mike, Maura and I hit the Sun. food and clothes markets, ate a variety of food (they said it was good haha) then a nice drink at my fave, the Cocktail Trading Co. We also took a boat ride on the Thames but it was too hot for me up top so I hung out below. A fish n chips meal after at the Red Lion by Westminster and Big Ben and that was Sunday. Mon. I went back to the Natural History Museum, got treats for Dana and David, walked to Kensington High St. to take Dana out to dinner (in yet another heat wave) and that rounded out the trip. I succumbed to Duty Free and bought myself a newish scent of Chanel cuz I deserved it, god damn it! We actually took off on time and I got my sorry ass back to Boston. It was a lot of bad luck and another reason not to travel in the summer. Latvia and Lithuania, what will you bring? Nothing but good things please.