Joanie's Latvia/Lithuania Vacation

New computer means I can finally get my October 2025 report done. On Mon. 10/20 I had a smooth subway ride to Logan then an easy flight to Riga (Latvia) on Lufthansa via Frankfurt. Easy being the key word after that disaster trip to France and the UK. The flight was only $469 RT, made cheaper cuz Mike actually learned how to pack a carry on (with help from those vacuum things that squish your clothes down).
He had a bit of a freak out when it seemed like someone took his personal bag by mistake, but all was well and we had an easy bus ride to our well-priced and well-located Konventa Seta Hotel. A comfy big room, with a view of St. Peters Cathedral, only complaint was the lack of outlets We started walking around to enjoy some sun since that wasn't a given on this trip. Walked by the Freedom Monument, the pretty Nativity of Christ Cathedral, thru a park, past some traditional wooden architecture which is a thing in that city, got cheap tasty snacks at a bakery then up to Skyline Bar in the Radisson Blu for a funky drink and great views. Took an hour nap, regrouped then out to the traditional restaurant Folkklubs where our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, but it was really fun chatting with a local and his co-worker from Estonia. And getting some rock recommendations from our waiter Patrick. You gotta try the traditional rye garlic bread, amazing. Wandered around a bit and had Belgian beer at the cute bar KwakInn across from our hotel to end the nite.

Around Riga

Wed. was our tour of the Hill of Crosses just over the border in Lithuania. It was chilly but the sun was shining. It's a very cool sight, anyone can bring a cross (although really large ones need approval) and it's just a weird/beautiful place. We hung out with Kirra from London and some folks from Wisconsin and France. Also saw a couple churches, had a nice lunch and caught the great Chamotte sculpture park in Jelgava. Our guide was awesome and opened a bottle of the traditional Latvian Black Balsam Currant liquor for us to try. It was a packed 7 hr tour but we had more to do when we got back downtown, including visiting the famous Three Brothers buildings, making a stop at Down St. Records (where I purchased one comp of Latvian punk) then meeting Kirra for drinks at Gimlet, known for making cocktails with Latvian liquors. We ended up getting a crazy cheap and tasty dinner at the casual (and loud) Ezitas Migla. Side note, it's not as inexpensive as you might think over there since both countries are on the Euro, but obviously prices are better than in Boston. Ended the nite at Two More Beers (which doubled as our hotel bkfst space in the morning) and talked to nice tall blonde local Paul.

Hill of Crosses

Thurs. we had a guided tour of the Occupation Museum learning about Latvia's tumultuous past. Then it was time for the Central Market, the largest in Europe. After dealing with a couple crazy Russians, we ate dumplings (a trip filled with heavy foods) then across the river to the National Library for a view from the top, then a coffee break at the cool Black Magic Cafe (very cozy on a drizzly day), up the tower of St. Peter's Cathedral for more great views, and back to the museum to see what we missed earlier. The evening started with drinks at Secret Event, super fun guys working there who got us involved in silly games. Had a nice Russian dinner at Old Traditions with complimentary shots of horseradish vodka then to the bar Zebra in another part of town which Patrick had recommended. The bartender was nice but the jukebox had been loaded up with mostly crap music.

More Riga

Day 4/Fri started at the Corner House aka the KGB Museum for a tour of that depressing place. Sadly, a little too close to present day reality with you know who in charge. We then walked by their stadium and some Deco bldgs., split the one Doner kebab of the trip (?!), then walked thru the very pretty Bastejkalns Park. Mike shopped for knick knacks while I sat at Rocket Bean cafe then quickly visited the Ghetto Museum by the market. Tried the famous "cruffin" from our hotel bakery. Our final nite we had to go back to Secret Event who suggested Cafeteria Lido for dinner. It's a small chain and the best cafeteria with excellent and cheap choices. Then time for the metal show at Debo, a cool club close to the hotel, we were told November was their last month after 20 years but I see they're still going in Feb. The first band Strapon was decent in a Cult kind of way, Iron Wings were too thrashy for me and I couldn't make it to band 3. Quick walk back to the hotel, I'd go back for sure.

Sat. morning we had planned on walking to the bus station but the weather sucked so we cabbed all of a half and took the easy ride to Vilnius (with free water and coffee!). Walked the 15 min to our St. Palace Hotel which was more impressive from the outside. It was good but after our spacious Riga room, a bit of a letdown but location, view and price were good. Weather was a little crappy so we sat at local chain Caffeine for a coffee, Mike wandered and I chilled. Riga and Vilnius are similar, but Vilnius is bigger and more modern in places. That nite we hit pub Šnekutis which was jammed. Split the traditional peas (more like chickpeas) with cracklins and a meat stuffed zeppelin (giant dumpling). If you're curious, this site shows the traditional foods. Friendly employees and patrons who tried to send us in the right direction to the DIY punk rock show at XI20. Very DIY and BYO, which was tough for Mike cuz they stop selling alcohol at stores at 8PM even on a Sat. It was running on punk rock time so we sat at a bar for a bit then caught the first band Las Pystuxas who were kind of screamy emo but decent. Then we saw punky Netvarkoi and left before band 3. Came back and sat at the UK looking Portobello pub for a quick one surrounded by 22 year olds.

Sun. we walked around making our way to the Vilnius KGB Museum which wasn't as gross as the Riga one. It's all scary to think about the times these countries had to live thru with both Russian and Nazi occupations. Side note, both cities are very much in solidarity with Ukraine, their flags are everywhere, and there was a display in honor of Zelenskyy at the museum. Then over to their market but it wasn't as good as the Riga one, at least not on a Sunday. So many places don't open until 5 or 6 so we couldn't just check out certain bars that easily. We ended up at Dogma, the sandwich shop/bar by our hotel which was amusing as Mike serenaded the place with a guitar that was hanging on the wall and our new friend Paule was itching to sing along.
Now some background for our Sun. evening plan. In late Aug. I ran into Ken Casey on City Hall Plaza (at the Ukrainian festival coincidentally) and we were talking about the Dropkick Murphys touring and me traveling and lo and behold, they were playing in Vilnius when we were there. So before bussing to the outer part of town, Mike and I got a nice drink at Nomads then time for rock at Compensa, the cleanest, shiniest venue you've ever seen. I guess it was the smallest place they played on that European tour (about 800 maybe) but it was good. Boston HC darlings Haywire opened and seemed to win over the crowd. I think the Dropkicks got a kick out of seeing Boston people in Vilnius. Nice catching up with everyone and hanging backstage, thanks guys.

Vilnius

Mon. we skipped going to the KGB Bunker in this city Kaunas which would have been interesting but a good distance and kind of a pain. We started with breakfast and the best latte at Pilies Kepyklele then climbed the Bell Tower and visited the Vilnius Cathedral. We walked a good distance to the modern side of town to visit the National Gallery of Art but it was closed that day, doh. Got some pics from that side of town then hit the MO Museum of modern art, where I had a chance to catch up on sleep as Mike slowly made his way thru ??. We'd passed City Chef BBQ a couple times and it was the perfect place for a pulled pork lunch. That evening, we walked over to the Užupis section of town for a drink at the very Lithuanian Spunka bar. You can actually get a passport stamp as they consider themselves a separate 'republic', kind of like Christiania in Copenhagen. Then back to our area for a great pork cutlet dinner and Lithuanian salad at the cozy Amatininku Uzeiga and a nightcap at what became my favorite bar in Vilnius, Nick & Nora. Great drinks in a pretty and cool 40's feeling atmosphere.

More Vilnius

Tues. was our last day, so we took the bus out to Trakai Castle and wandered around there a bit. Decided to eat back in Vilnius thinking we timed the bus right but things got all messed up so we got great soup at Pizza & Grill in Trakai and finally made our way back. Turns out record store Muzikumas was across from our hotel so I talked with the guys there and ended up buying a metal band CD. The final evening started with opera happening on the main city square as we made our way to Nick & Nora (after realizing Apoteka bar was closed on Tues, sad face here). Then a tasty travel agent dinner at Lokys where we split a combo plate of roast venison and boar, game sausage and of course some beaver stew ??. Dessert was cherry liqueur w/ chocolate at Piana Vyshnia then a final stop at local spot Bix Barra.

So a great trip, with no disasters at any point while traveling, and made easier by just doing two cities close to each other. If the sun had been out a bit more, it would have been perfect. Spain, Andorra and Toulouse up next.